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Look around your home. The floor may be oak or maple; the baseboard and window sills may be clear-finished pine, poplar or cherry. Kitchen cabinets could be solid or laminated, from knotty pine, oak, maple, or cherry. With so many types of wood available, it's important to learn how to recognize and evaluate basic types of woods to recognize their strengths and weaknesses.
Before making your purchase, think about how you intend to use the wood. When choosing the actual piece of wood, check for any twists or warping. Look for splits at the ends of the board and surface defects like knots. Look for machine marks, insect holes, dents, and shipping scars. Will these defects affect how you intend to use the wood? Compare the different types of grain patterns. Try to match grain patterns in boards that will be used next to one another, since differences will become more pronounced once you brush on a coat of stain. Finally, once you've made your decision, be sure to measure the wood before you buy it.
Before starting almost any wood finishing project, you should have these items on hand: heavy plastic drop cloths and newspapers, rags, brushes or other applicators, #120 and #220 sandpaper, paper towels, cotton swabs, mineral spirits and sealed metal containers, such as empty paint cans (for cleaning brushes, and, with the addition of water, for disposing of rags and waste soaked with oil finishes). Rubber gloves are recommended for keeping your hands clean. Old clothes are recommended because they are usually expendable and generally lint-free.
For best results and your own safety, remember to follow carefully all label directions and cautions.
Stains may be applied with clean rags, cheese cloth, brushes, and other applicators. For best results, we recommend the use of a high quality brush. Why?
* It carries more finish, meaning fewer trips to the can
* Your work will be neater, with fewer runs and drips
* It won't leave bristles in your finish
* It won't leave "holidays" or lap marks
* It responds better to cleaning and storage
* It springs back to life the next time you reach for it
* It will last longer
What are the characteristics of a high-quality brush?
* Long, silky, flexible bristles of varying lengths
* Bristles with "flagged" or split tips
* A non-corrosive metal or plastic ferrule
* Contoured wooden handle
* Tapered, well-secured bristles
* Well-balanced feel
Use natural bristle brushes only if working with oil-based products. They are not recommended for use with water-based products since the water makes the fibers swell, resulting in an uneven draw on the product. Both polyester bristles (medium to high-quality brushes) and nylon bristles (low to medium quality brushes) can be used for either oil or water-based finishes. However, nylon bristles are not recommended for shellac or two-part epoxy finishes. Finally, disposable foam poly brushes are best suited for applying stain to small projects and hard-to-reach areas, like those between chair spindles, since they provide better control. Foam poly brushes are not recommended for fine finish work, shellac or lacquer.
One of the most important steps in wood finishing is sanding. A thorough sanding is often the factor that separates "acceptable" results from "professional-looking" results. Start with a medium grade of sandpaper (e.g. #120) and gradually work your way to a finer grade (e.g. #220). Sand in the direction of the grain for a smooth, uniform finish and remove all sanding dust, using a vacuum, dry paint brush or cloth, before finishing. Look out for dried glue, especially in the joint area. If it's not thoroughly removed by sanding, it will interfere with the staining process. End-grains (areas where the wood has been cut against the grain), such as the front side of a table, tend to soak up more stain than surfaces cut with the grain. With additional sanding to end-grain areas, you can better control the absorption of stain.
All wood is divided into two categories: Soft and hard. It is important that you understand which type of wood you're dealing with in order to properly prepare it, since softwood absorbs color quickly and may take stain unevenly.
To sand between chair spindles, wrap a strip of sandpaper around the spindle and work it back and forth like dental floss. For bigger jobs, use a power sander, but first practice on a spare piece of wood. To check your work, run a sock over the sanded wood, If it snags, you'll need to re-sand the area.
If you are uncertain as to what type of wood you are working with, conduct the "fingernail" test to determine if you have a softwood or a hard wood. If your fingernail dents the surface, you have a soft wood, like pine. Since softwoods tend to absorb stain unevenly, pre-treat the wood before staining. This extra step will help you control color penetration. Note: Although maple and alder are hardwoods, they frequently absorb dark stains unevenly. Play it safe and pre-treat these woods with Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Also, don't forget the porous end grain; it may need an extra coat of wood conditioner to help the wood absorb the stain evenly. A thorough sanding will also help control color penetration.
Color is determined by four factors: The color of the stain selected; the nature of the wood and how porous it is; how long the stain is left on, from a few seconds to a maximum of 15 minutes; and the extent of wiping when removing excess stain. Choose from the many wood tone colors, using a dealer's sample board or manufacturer's color cards. But remember: Different species of wood absorb stain differently. Test the color on a hidden section of the wood you are using.
You can mix stains together to create custom tones. It's easy to lighten any tone. Before mixing wood tones, look at the predominant color of the wood you are matching. Is it reddish, grayish, blondish or yellowish? Use a stain with that hue as your base and add lesser amounts of a secondary stain until you reach the desired tint or tone. Try not to mix more than three wood tones at a time. That way it's easier to control and replicate the outcome. Be sure to mix enough to complete the entire project.
You can also use stains to give inexpensive wood expensive-looking results. But you must use wood with a similar grain. For example, if you want to stain an inexpensive wood to achieve a cherry appearance, you must use a wood like maple, which has a tight- grained pattern similar to cherry. Likewise, poplar is often used as a substitute for white oak.
For the traditional two-step finish, you first stain the wood and then add a clear protective finish. The two-step finishing system permits independent control over each step - the depth of color, and the level of protection. This system is used to obtain rich, professional- looking finishes on small and large projects as well as on antiques. The first step is to apply a Wood Finish stain, which penetrates deep into wood fibers, the color becoming part of the wood and not just a surface film. Since many Wood Finishes do not raise the grain of the wood, there's no need to sand in between coats.
TIP: They say that the best medicine is prevention. To help prevent wood swelling and warping due to changes in temperature and moisture, finish all exposed surfaces of the wood item with stain and finish. This includes areas not easily visible, like the insides of cabinets and drawers and the undersides of tables.
If you're interested in easily achieving the popular "pickled" look, consider using a Pastel, which provides rich, transparent color while highlighting the grain of the wood. Work in small sections and maintain a wet edge, since pastel stains tend to dry quickly.
The second step in the process is to apply a hard protective finish. This protects, preserves, and enhances the natural beauty of the wood. To select the best finish for your project, consider: Is the project meant for interior or exterior use? Is superior durability demanded? Is it going to be subjected to moisture? Now review the different types of protective finishes that are available to determine which best meets the specific performance needs of your project.
For furniture, floors, and other wood surfaces subject to heavy use, it is preferable to use a Fast-Drying Polyurethane in a satin, semi-gloss or gloss finish. Its slightly amber color adds a rich appearance to the wood. Fast-Drying Polyurethane gives beautiful, long-lasting protection to any finished or unfinished wood. If using a brush to apply a Fast-Drying Polyurethane, make sure you brush in the direction of the grain. This will ensure that you won't have cross grain strokes when finished.
We recommend using a Polycrylic Protective Finish over pastel wood stains as polyurethane finishes tend to amber and distort the pastel color. Water cleanup finishes have low odor formulas, which make them convenient to use indoors.
If you intend to apply a clear protective finish over previously stained wood, it is critical that you allow the stain to dry the recommended amount of time before applying the first coat of clear finish. Applying the protective finish before the stain has completely dried may result in chipping, peeling, or bleeding of color. We recommend you wait eight hours before applying a clear finish.
TIPS: When using a Polyurethane, "tip-off" each section. Hold the brush at a 45-degree angle and lightly run the bristles over the length of the finish to remove all evidence of brush strokes.
If you have product left over, wipe the can rim so that the product doesn't dry out and so that rust doesn't form on the can. This will also help you seal the can property. After sealing, store cans away from heat.
Clean brushes soiled with oil-based finishes using mineral spirits; soap and water are all that is needed for brushes used with water cleanup products.
Equally important are the steps you should take when applying additional coats of a protective finish. The bottom coat must be dry before recoating. It is also important to sand between coats to improve coat-to-coat adhesion and to remove all sanding dust before recoating. Failure to follow these steps may result in de-lamination of the protective finish. Check individual stain and clear finish labels for optimal temperature and humidity levels.
Until recently, wood finishing required two steps: the application of a stain plus a clear protective finish. Today, stain-and-protective- finish-in-one products are convenient because they simplify the finishing process and cut finishing time in half. They're ideal for use on smaller pieces, like decorative items that don't experience high wear and tear. However, keep in mind that you don't get the same depth of color and durable protection that you do when using separate stain and finish products.
Please be mindful of the safe way to dispose of used rags and other waste. Rags, steel wool and other waste soaked with oil finishes may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Place rags, steel wool and waste immediately after use in a water-filled metal container. Tightly seal and then dispose of in accordance with local regulations. Be sure to keep the container out of reach of children.
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